Caerphilly, carefully. Known primarily as the grub of Welsh coalminers, this cheese has also long been made in England's West Country by the Ducketts of Somerset, whose own production of this noble wheel began three generations ago with the raw milk from their herd of Friesian cows. Revived from near extinction, our Caerphilly reads like three cheeses in one: an ivory core that's curdy with a yogurt tang; a dense, straw-yellow creamline just below the rind with the texture of hot fudge and the flavor of butter-drenched mushrooms; and a mottled gray rind reminiscent of oolong tea leaves. Each clunky wheel spends time in a dark, dank aging cellar that screams 'underground pub!' and gives Caerphilly its characteristic heavy earthiness. Add a balanced English Ale and a bit of sun for a perfect afternoon.