Toni Chueca is a pioneer. He started making gorgeous farmstead goat's cheeses in Catalunya in 1980, in a region devoid of goat's milk cheese. Since then, the cheese has reached the apex of its deliciousness. These days, it abounds'especially Toni's Madurat, a friendly, pasteurized log covered in veggie ash. The cheese is dense and smooth, with bright, lemony notes and a mushroomy mellowness. It's genius crumbled in salads and omelets, or served beside anchovies and olives for an elegant appetizer. Pop open a bottle of lively Cava, or a crisp Pale Ale.