18th century gastronome Brillat-Savarin called it the Prince of Gruyeres, and it remains one of the most impressive traditional, raw milk cheeses available. (Note that the best Beaufort is much subtler than Swiss Gruyere). Enormous 85-pound wheels are trundled down from the Savoie Alps at the end of fleeting summers where indigenous cows have feasted on sloping meadows of flowers and grass. Murray's avoids wheels that are flat and one-dimensional, holding out for those cheeses that are delicately fruity and scrambled eggy - look for notes of warm cream and a mellow hazelnut finish. Savor with that Bordeaux you're been saving.