This tri-layered Italian wonder is a cross between a smooth, creamy-driven French tomme and a firm, curdy English cheddar. Farmers in Italy’s Piedmont region use pasteurized cow’s milk to form each squat cylinder reminiscent of the medieval Italian cheese Castelmango. When compared to those cheeses of the past, however, Castelrosso boasts a creamier, more nuanced paste. Its thick, mottled, white-brown rind tastes of earth and breaks down the paste just beneath into an intense, luscious, salty cream. The cheese’s innermost core remains dense, chalky, and lactic, with the flavor of browned, buttery lemon bar, fresh from the oven.