The penetrating, spicy aroma from this little disc of soft, sticky, pasteurized cow's milk cheese is kept at bay in a little wooden box. Hand ladled curds are molded, washed in lightly salted water and ripened in humid cellars. After four weeks the rind is rinsed with Marc de Bourgogne, a French brandy. Napoleon I and Louis XIV were avid supporters of the strong, meaty taste of this famous A.O.C. (appelation d'origine controlee) stinker. When ripe, the texture is like thick, salty pudding. Serve with a powerful young Burgundy or a floral, acidic white for the ultimate experience.