This is the classic washed-rind stinker you've read about in the tabloids; it's rumored to be banned from public transportation in France due to its powerful aroma. Although its history dates back to the sixteenth century, Epoisses de Bourgogne became endangered and all but disappeared for the early-to-mid 1900s, due to the loss of nearly half of the population during World Wars I and II. It wasn't until the mid-1950s that M. Berthaut resumed production of this beloved cheese. The best versions are raw milk, but you'll find them only in Europe. Here in the States, look for the often puddle-like, pasteurized version in the little wooden box. Its orange smear-rind develops with weekly washings in brandy-like Marc de Bourgogne. Salty and runny, with a mild bite, we prefer it ripe enough to dunk your bread in its luscious, succulent ooze. Your choices of wine are versatile, from Alsatian Riesling to California Cabernet.

Each piece weighs approximately 8 oz