We source this classic raw cow’s milk tomme from the caves of Herve Mons outside Roanne, but it must be made according to A.O.C. rules in the mountains of Auvernge. A rich, silky interior develops a mottled looking rind during affinage. First, a brine wash builds some pungency, then rye mats are laid underneath which cause a blanket of brownish gray mold. Proper cave aging results in more diversity, including white, red, and yellow dotting. The resulting aroma invokes an earthy cellar and the flavor of ours is intensely vegetal with cashew notes and mild sharpness. Serve as is, with Beaujolais on hand.