Welcome to stinky cheese 101, where we learn that despite pungent, nearly offensive aromas, flavors can be gentle, buttery, and mild. The lush rolling grasslands of Lombardy are the source of great milk, transmogrified into this meaty, salty square with the compulsively edible yeastiness of freshly baked bread. That sunny cantaloupe-colored rind may get gray and furry, but things have not necessarily gotten out of hand. The smell of ammonia will tip you off to spoilage. For Italy's answer to barny greats like Epoisses, find a crisp, neutral white like Pinot Grigio and convert a cheese newbie today.