Made by a single producer, Rafael Baez, of Avila in Castilla y Leon, this bizarre and exuberant goat cheese is shaped like a log, but is said to resemble the leg of a mule. A rind composed of ash and mold means insistent flavor, more like a blue cheese than anything else. The damp, cakey acidic paste near the rind is fierce, with unmistakable overtones of black walnut. Inside, the core remains salty, lactic, and soothing. A relatively new cheese on the scene, Monte Enebro won top goat cheese in Spain in 2003. That insistent flavor is pacified by sweeter wines made from the charming Muscat grape.