Goats are troopers. They'll go anywhere and eat anything, though we've yet to catch one munching a tin can. The Auvergne goats responsible for this tomme eat their way through chestnut tree groves ( chataigneraie ), enjoying sticks and sprigs, nuts and leaves, and whatever grows in between. No wonder the thick, mottled rind and supple, meaty paste are the essence of roasted chestnut. As if all that fodder weren't enough, the wheels are then aged on chestnut planks. For all that work, you get a rustic paste that manages to be roasted-nut rich and delicate at the same time. Unlike fresher styles, the long aging time on these big wheels means they are available (and delicious) all the year round. We like a white wine with a bit of funk to it; if you can find Loire Savennières, you'll be in goat heaven.