'One of the world's greatest cheeses, this fine specimen of small cooperative cheesemaking is from the Jura in eastern Franche-Comté. More Comté is made than any other French cheese (42,400 tons in 1997), and it's no wonder, considering a single wheel weighs about ninety pounds (that's 140 gallons of milk!) Small herds graze throughout the summers on Alpine grass, their milk is pooled, and Comté is made in mountain huts and aged for many months, sometimes up to one year, before it sees market. Like Swiss Gruyère, the firm, supple paste has aromas of cooked milk, butter, and hazelnuts, and is dotted with olive pit-sized eyes, or holes. The flavor is supremely balanced and fruity, though sweeter and mellower than its Swiss cousins. Melted, it adds depth and roundness to traditional fondue, and softens the edge on rustic Rhône reds.