Deep in Extremadura, where Merino sheep forage on slate and granite soil, La Serena is testament to creative, seasonal cheesemaking. Coagulated with cardoon thistle, this flabby saucer can be dangerous when ripe. It's so gooey you're liable to stick your thumb through the scaly brown crust and then have to eat the whipped, melting interior. For a party, carefully saw off the top and encourage guests to scoop the guts onto crusty bread. The thistle imparts an intense, vegetal, nearly sour flavor that's a beast to pair with wines. We like something faintly sweet, but not overly floral, or a toasted, nutty Oloroso Sherry.