Cheesemaker Todd Trethowan has revived the tradition of Caerphilly at the foothills of the Cambrian Mountains in West Wales. He describes his measurements in “teacups worth of rennet” and “walnut” sized cuts of raw cows’ milk curd. The name Gorwydd is pronounced "Gore-with" and it is singular in the world of industrial Caerphilly. The only one made of raw cows' milk, it looks like a cheesecake, and has three distinct textures and flavors: the interior core is bright white and crumbling with a tart, yogurty, lemon zing. Beneath the rind look for a smushy-smooth layer that's all mushroom and truffle, capped off with the chewy earthen essence of the rind itself. Play up the citrus notes with a golden wheat beer.